In the world of horology, the Urban Jürgensen UJ-1 Tourbillon is a true masterpiece that demands our attention. This remarkable timepiece, born from the revival of the Urban Jürgensen brand in 2025, is more than just a wristwatch; it's a testament to the art of watchmaking and a tribute to the legendary Oval pocket watch created by Derek Pratt.
The UJ-1 is a fascinating reinterpretation of history, bringing the essence of Pratt's masterpiece to the wrist. Under the co-direction of Kari Voutilainen and Alex Rosenfield, this watch is not merely a scaled-down version of the Oval, but a thoughtful adaptation that preserves its fundamental architecture.
One of the most intriguing aspects is the movement's design. While it may appear simple at first glance, the real complexity lies beneath the surface. The challenge of converting a key-wound, key-set pocket watch movement into a wristwatch with a crown and keyless works was masterfully overcome. The entire winding and hand-setting mechanism was ingeniously relocated to the dial side, ensuring the back of the movement remained faithful to the Oval's design.
The back of the UJ-1 showcases a stunning composition with a flying barrel, a monumental curved bridge, and a one-minute flying tourbillon. The large negative spaces give the movement an air of simplicity, yet it is this very simplicity that hints at the intricate mechanics within.
The tourbillon and remontoir are the real stars of the show. The remontoir d'égalité, an intermediary energy store, ensures a constant torque delivery to the escapement. This mechanism, inspired by Pratt's design, uses a Reuleaux triangle to control the charging and release of the remontoir spring, creating a dead-beat seconds display. The tourbillon cage, with its asymmetrical geometry, is a functional masterpiece, compensating for the uneven distribution of mass caused by the integrated remontoir.
The power reserve mechanism is another nod to history, utilizing a conical system derived from marine chronometry. This complex mechanism, while not the most efficient, adds to the overall aesthetic and connects the UJ-1 to the brand's rich history in precision chronometers.
The finishing of the UJ-1 is exceptional, going beyond the typical expectations at this price point. The movement is a work of art, with broad surfaces frosted and polished, creating a textured grenage finish. Even the smallest details, like the triple colimaçonnage decoration inspired by Pratt's Oval, are executed with obsessive precision.
The dial, manufactured by Comblémine, is a study in restraint, featuring traditional flinqué guilloché techniques. The case, with its compact dimensions and new Urban Jürgensen design, is available in platinum or rose gold, each limited to 25 pieces.
At CHF 368,000, the UJ-1 is undoubtedly a luxury proposition. However, its value lies not just in its complication, but in the meticulous reconstruction of Pratt's movement, the innovative design solutions, and the exceptional decoration. It is a true statement piece, a masterpiece that showcases the best of contemporary independent watchmaking.
In my opinion, the UJ-1 Tourbillon is a watch that challenges our perceptions of timekeeping. It is a work of art, a technical marvel, and a historical tribute, all rolled into one. It invites us to appreciate the beauty of mechanics and the passion that drives the masters of this ancient craft.
